Reprieve for a Dying Art

Once Upon a Time...

Why this tome?

In this new Milennium, we live in a pragmatic world which has taken Henry Ford's maxim of mass production to extremes.
Caveat Emptor is the rule; automation the name of the game; quality, gentility, and honour merely fond remembrances of days gone by. The Japanese have developed a robot which sews a shirt without a seamstress. The French have contributed a machine capable of cutting the entire garment. Why, the only need for humans is one to lay a piece of cloth on the cutting table and another to wear the finished shirt! Sadly, most all 'Custom' shirtmakers the world 'round have opted to forego quality in favor of 'progress'; vertical integration with fabric merchants rather than independent creativity.
Hence, we feel the need to offer these many words of our salute to the way things once were, the way they should be, and the way they shall remain here for as long as we continue to practice our art. We shall create couture custom shirts, blouses, classic furnishings, and the finest of accessories for people of gentility. We shall craft with only quality and good taste in mind. And we shall offer our wares with honour and dignity and pride.

A Most Unique Adventure . . .
In Fine Old-world Craftsmanship

To Alexander S. Kabbaz and his wife & partner Joelle M. Kelly, shirts are their art ...

though she might arguably claim a 'multi-art-talentedness' lacking in Kabbaz by offering to also hand-knit you a sweater. Each a creation of pride; no two ever quite alike. Every creation is a child of painstaking labor. That's why your order is accompanied by detailed instructions for proper laundering and pressing. Concern for these children does not stop at our workroom door but continues long after they leave our shop. That's why, when you bring our shirt 'home' years from now for new collar, new cuffs, and a bit of tender encouragement from Mom & Pop, the result will be virtually a new shirt. That's why, some 60 years after his grandmother rendered her first shirting design for Sulka, Alex still creates fewer than 50 shirts each week. That's why, when you come here for the first time, we'll fit you two, four, six times... whatever is necessary to attain the perfect fit. To quote Kabbaz, "The only client I wish to serve is a client for life. And that's why we offer the simplest of guarantees: If it is not 'perfect', we shall make it so!"

'A Most Unique Adventure...'

No, this isn't a reference to an African Safari, notwithstanding that we send you off on one stylishly and functionally attired. Nor are we speaking of flying your private jet, competing at martial arts, or going off to war... although we have dressed clients for all of these and many more. The Adventure begins with our depth of insight. Why? Attire speaks before you've had the chance to utter even your first word. Your appearance is the window through which your are first viewed by your peers. The most important result of our initial consultation lies not in the extensive series of measures we place in your file, but in what we garner about your personality, your profession, your taste, and your station in life. Important is not that particular fabric which offers us the greatest profit. Important is the suitability of your wardrobe. This can be considered only if we gain a comprehensive understanding of who you are. Important lies not only in our complimenting your wiser selections and in offering you others from which to choose, but also in having the temerity to suggest that something you might want would be entirely inappropriate for you. The image you should portray is the responsibility we wish to accept.

'...Fine Old-world Craftsmanship'

How do we do all of this and remain successful? It's quite simple, actually. Our charges are set from a viewpoint which allows us to concentrate our efforts solely on the caliber of our work. Truthfully, pricing is the easy part. Difficult is when we sit down and carefully consider each one of the more than 25,000 individual stitches we make in some 12 miles of Egyptian-grown, Swiss-woven long staple cotton yarn, to which we hand-sew 14-20 New Zealand-grown Mother-of-Pearl buttons. Add seven or eight hours of tailoring, a hefty dose of creativity, a lifetime of pride and you get...one shirt! We could go on for pages about our complete individual pattern, an entirely hand-cut and sewn garment, the magnifying loupe through which we inspect the fabric we shrink as necessary before cutting, and the many hundreds of other techniques we use to insure the perfection of our craft. However, we consider this not only proprietary but also firmly believe that this is our responsibility. Suffice it to say, thanks to our many loyal clients, we are happy to have the ability to direct our skill and attention solely toward the quality of our shirts. Please feel free to come in and watch us work... any time.

The Kabbaz-Kelly Method

New Clients-First Order

Kabbaz explains the initial work as follows:
1

On your first visit, we'll chat for a while in order that I might gain a proper sense of your needs. Then we'll discuss styling and fit while I take some 35 measures and notes.
2 Later, I'll design, strike, and cut your individual basic pattern. This will incorporate the styling details we discussed and is the springboard from which we'll develop your wardrobe during ensuing years. I'll use this pattern to cut, stitch, and launder your first sample which tests my ideas and measures.
3 A week after our initial session, you'll return to try-on this test shirt. I'll pin-fit and see how it meshes with our ideas. From our discussion on how well I captured your desires, I'll alter your pattern.
4 If the test was reasonably correct, we'll then craft an actual shirt from your order. This you will wear and have washed by your usual laundress or laundry. Either call to confirm approval of drop in to show me the results which I'll use to make final minute adjustments.
5 From the final adjusted pattern, your first order of six shirts will be cut, sewn, monogrammed if desired, and delivered in about three to five weeks. Your pattern is then permanently kept on file.

Before your place a subsequent order, I'd like to see you in the shirt you've found most pleasing. Fine cotton tends, over time, to shape and adapt itself to the wearer. It is only after that has been accomplished that I can make the final little nips and tucks to your permanent pattern. This, by the way, remains an ongoing process. Should more than four or five years pass between your actual visits to the shop, I'll most probably refuse to make any more shirts until I see you in a recent creation! After all, our only advertising is the answer you give to the question, "Where did you get that shirt?"

Previous Clients - Reorders

You can either call to have us send current fabric samples for your perusal or to instruct us to repeat previous shirt selections, or you can stop by any time. Be sure to inform us if any changes are necessary and your order will be crafted from your permanently filed pattern. Reorders normally require four to six weeks. Quickest deliveries are made in January, February, and September.

Our Repertoire, Stocked Shirting Fabrics

Fine Egyptian Cottons

In excess of 25,000 selections
woven of Egyptian-grown
Long Staple 2x2 yarns in
100, 120, 140, 180, or 200 Denier
(Not to be confused with
the common rack shirt term
"Sea Island", a quite inferior
yarn by comparison)
Woven by the premier mills
of Switzerland, Italy, and France,
as well as pre-1960 British
woven antique fabrics
Available in Broadcloth, Voile,
Poplin, Duck, Twill, Denim,
Gabardine, Jersey, Mesh, Batiste,
Herringbone, Oxford, Royal Oxford,
End-on-End, Dobby, Jacquard,
Pique, and Flannel weaves

Luxurious Silks

The finest qualities of Switzerland, Italy, and the Orient
Broadcloth, Habutae, Crepe de Chine, or Charmeuse weaves
Single, double, or quadruple weights on request

Other Fabric Selections

Vyella, Linen, Wool, Wool Gabardine
Linen & Cotton, Wool & Cotton
Cashmere, Silk & Cashmere

Our Repertoire, Shirts, Blouses, & More

Daily, Weekend, & Specialty Wear

Dress, Fashion, Formal, Tuxedo, Sport, Driving, Clerical,
Aviator, Cossack, Military, & Safari Shirts
Shirtjackets, Laboratory & Doctors', Coats,
Western & English Riding Shirts, Karate Ghia

Other Attire and Furnishings

Robes, Pajamas, Sleepcoats, Boxer Shorts,
Ties, Silk Braces, Bow Ties, Ascots,
Handkerchiefs, Scarves, Pocket Squares,
Dore Dore & Pantherella Socks, Zimmerli Undershorts, Smedley Polo Shirts
Belts and Wallets

Details - Basic Collarstyles

Point, Button-down, English Spread
Round, London Club, Two Point, Tab
Mandarin, Nehru, Detachable, Tie-collar
Capri, Sport, Wing, Pin with Eyelets
Shawl, Pajama,... to name but a few!

Details - Basic Cuffstyles

One, Two, or Three Button
French, Link, Convertible, English
Hexagonal, Point-Overlap
Western, Round, Half-Round

Details...And More Details

Antique Buttons, Gold Cuff Links
Hand Pleating
Gold & Sterling Belt Buckles
Multi-Fabric Combinations
Cossack, Fireman's Front, Dolman & Raglan Sleeves
Pullover Fronts, Linen Collars
Contrast Stitching, Hand Monogramming of Any Cloth Article

Shirt Refurbishing

When one of our shirts begins to age in the collar and cuffs, it is ofttimes economical to change the offending parts. However, the great majority of time we invest lies in the exhausting search for matching fabric. Our present stock of remnants exceeds 15,000 patterns! Therefore, we undertake this quest twice annually as per the schedule below. Storage space is limited; we appreciate receiving shirts only during the scheduled times. Shirt refurbishing will be done properly (both collar and cuffs) or not at all. If we are unable to locate a particular fabric for matching, we shall use white cloth unless you specifically instruct us not to. Should a shirt not be worth repairing due to the condition of other parts, we shall discard it unless you specifically instruct us not to.

Schedule of Charges and Repair Periods

Shirts received January 1 - January 15 will be returned by April
Shirts received June 15 - June 30 will be returned by September.
White Collar................$145
Matched Collar..............$145
White Eyelet Collar.........$155
Sleeve......................$145
Back........................$165
Pair White Cuffs............$135
Pair Matched Cuffs..........$135
Matched Eyelet Collar.......$155
Left or Right Front.........$165
Yoke...(Not Recommended)....$255

Ready-Made Shirts

Any of our fabrics can be made into standard rack-sized shirts or blouses as gifts for your special acquaintances. A selection of collars, cuffs and monogramming are available. Sizing ranges are:
Gents: 13/32 to 21/39 Ladies: 4-22 Boys & Girls: 1 - 8

Alexander S. Kabbaz - Joelle M. Kelly ... & Sons
Fine Custom Clothiers